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Restaurant review: Flat Iron

Flat Iron at 46 Golborne Road is the latest addition to the neighbourhood’s thriving restaurant scene. Number 46 is a site that’s seen a number of restaurants come and go over the years including TV chef Anthony Worrall Thompson in the late 1990s and, most recently, the well-reviewed but short-lived John Doe. Maybe it was the name. Flat Iron is actually part of a small chain which includes four other restaurants, two in Soho and one each in Shoreditch and Covent Garden.

If you’re a vegetarian, this might not be the eatery for you since the theme of Flat Iron is very much steak. Although to be fair, one of the sides, roast aubergine with tomato, basil and parmesan might be enough to keep a non-meat eater happy for £4.50.

The meat on this short menu comes with the title of ‘The Flatiron Steak’. That’s served with house leaf salad and comes with a choice of sauces including bearnaise, horseradish and peppercorn. And it’s not just any old steak – it comes from ‘carefully selected farms’ and some of it is actually sourced from the Flat Iron herd, looked after by cattleman Charles Ashbridge on a North Yorkshire farm.

On the day Golborne Life went for lunch, a special of aged ribeye steak was available. That was suitably succulent and pleasingly complemented by the bearnaise sauce. The fries, mysteriously described as ‘Dripping chips #128’ on the menu, were fluffy on the inside and crisp on the outside, just as they should be.

Washed down by a bottle of Fentiman’s dandelion & burdock ginger beer, this meal comes in at a little under £20, including service. Add another four quid for a wickedly indulgent – and generous – helping of Valrhona chocolate mousse with wild cherries soaked in kirsch.

There’s a short wine list with reds and whites sold by the carafe and a handful of beers served by the schooner. Cocktails are also on offer, including the Golborne G&T featuring homemade tonic syrup and Flat Iron Farm wild herb hay gin.

Flat Iron
46 Golborne Road, London, W10 5PR
flatironsteak.co.uk

NO RESERVATIONS